Another thumbs up for reollink. Isolated vlan with no interne and it just works. I did have one (E1 zoom) camera with issues that it suddenly started crashing constantly but got my money back and got the Poe version instead (E1 outdoor poe) and its been rock solid since. Probably a psu issue but didn’t bother trouble shooting further.

It took my brain way longer than I want to admit to figure out, what is wrong with that line… I gues my brain just autocorrected it for me without me even knowing.

Well the tacoes are already in my hands because I was the one stating the fire when I saw who was in the room and I wanted some snacks while watching it burn down.

I think we are getting too off topic here so maybe make a seperate post in here asking how to tinker with selfhosting, dns, tinkering etc and you can have multiple people’s inputs.

It can be a good idea to mentatlly seperate your router needs with you 2.5G speeds and WiFi needs, they dont have to live on the same device. For you private lan you need a router so you can hide and control your devices behind NAT and firewall. For that I’d just recommended one of the small hap or hax devices that suits your needs for routing, and/or wifi. If you want to be fancy the RB9005U could maybe work with your switching need as well.

You don’t need Vlan. I believe it is not what you think it is. Vlan is if you want to segregated your own lan int to different independent lans with various firewall rules.

All you need for your dorm is NAT. But for the love of god make sure that you dont connect your lan with the dorm lan or your DHCP server will start handing out IP’s to everyone else in your dorm and it will crash the dorm router. The ethernet jack in the wall of your dorm (I assume that’s how it works for you) needs to go to the WAN port of the router. But bare in mind on mikrotik you can configure the WAN port to be any physical port you want, but with default config it is port 1.

I have done this before as well when living in a dorm where wifi was shit so i did my own little setup in my room so I could stream to Crome cast etc on my own trusted lan. Get a small router with support for wire Guard vpn (i love mikrotik for this) and you have an easy way to tunnel out for all your devices.

well, it is better than an error with no description, filename, line of code nor exit code or linke to a log file… I have had way too many of those in those pesky “no code” environments and applications that is supposed to make programming equipment easy.

If done right even if the controller/bridge is down it should still work. However Zigbee is a bit of the wild west so mixing brands of switches and bulbs might not always work if you want this functionality so stick with one brand or test before you buy more. I have a few sonoff buttons and they dont work with ikea bulbs when pairing directly. But your mileage may vary.

I love all the ikea stuff, but true that the remote controls are absolutely garbage. I have multiple and they all are either slow, or not responding half the time. I think they have some debounce build onto the firmware and it is way too agressive.

Bme280 is actually just as cheap if not cheaper than the dht sensors. But its a fair point trying to keep the cost down. I definitely like that philosophy, but if the quality suffers too much it’s just not worth the trouble. Keep up the good work. 😎

Those dht11 sensors are garbage tho. Best case they are wildly off on their humidity sensor. Worst case they keep breaking and shows nonsense readings. I would recommend bme280 sensor instead. If you read about them you might see people complain that they are reading too high temperatures, but in my experience its because they are misconfigured. Default settings have a very high sampling rate of multiple samples per second that heats up the sensor a tiny bit giving you the offset. Lowering the sampling rate or turn the sensor off completely in between readings gives really precise measurements on both temperatures and humidity.

What’s on my USB stick you ask… A bunch of random shit I haven’t touched for 8 years so I have no idea what it is and it’s probably outdated, but I’d be damned if that usb stick is not In my keychain because “I might need it one day”

I have a raspberry pi with a cheap 5TB usb drive at my parents house that boots up once a week and pulls a backup. I use rsnapshot to create incremental updates that takes up every little space and is easy to manage. I have the drive accessible with smb should I ever need to pull a copy from there. It’s super slow but that doesn’t matter for an off-site backup and it is super cheap

Edit: I should maybe add for future readers that cheap does not mean cheap quality but cheap relative to the amount af TB you get per dollar. I use a WD shingled drive wich is quality drive but cheap and slow af. But it doesnt matter because the internet connection is the bottleneck anyway.