I did a similar project with a raspberry pi pico w and a glitter lamp. I ended up destroying the surface mount LEDs trying to solder them in to the board and instead replaced them with my own. The stirring motor was good, and a button to control it from the outside was a nice addition. Put the whole thing together with ESP Home and it’s fantastic. Also allowed me to switch from disposable batteries to a standard USB cable for power.

Removes from cart

Good tip!

Where I am from local governments have disposal policies for surplus items. This can be seized property, vehicles, office supplies, and computers. Or may be worth researching how your local area handles disposal because I’ve seen pallets of computers go cheap.

The ring is also cursed to be unremovable. You either need to get used to stealing every single mundane item from clothes to food every single day or pay the shopkeeper to remove it.

I recall a Zee Bashew video that I can’t seem to find that referenced a chart of how willing someone was to help when requested. The idea being the scale isn’t from “I will actively hinder you” to “I will sell my estate to aid you” but rather from less then helpful to more helpful.

For example, if you asked some haggard clerk about a quest the scale might be:

• Critical failure, the clerk directs you to the job board for details on any job.
• Failure, the clerk may point out there specific job on the board and direct you to it.
• Success, the clerk tells you that the person who posted the job is staying somewhere in town.
• Critical success, the clerk may share a rumor they heard in addition to telling you where the poster may be staying.

Regarding a discount from a penny-pinching inn keeper, perhaps it could go:

• Critical failure, payment for the entire stay is required up front. Extending your stay is not permitted.
• Failure, They are not willing to lower their prices
• Success, they will offer a lower price if you bundle extra services like meals, drinks, and baths.
• Critical success, they will offer you the bundle rate without bundling.

I run AdGuard as an addon to Home Assistant. If you want to stick to AdGuard you can go to Settings > Client Settings and set a per-client filtering rule. There is a tab in the client settings that can be used to filter specific services with a click. Setting an IP reservation for your child’s device in the DHCP settings of Unifi or your router will help ensure the IP address stays consistent.

For the PiHole option, you don’t actually have to let the PiHole handle DHCP. You just need to tell your DHCP server what DNS server to use. For example, my router is .1 and my Raspberry PI is .2. The DHCP server, my router, tells all devices .1 is the gateway and .2 is the DNS server. You may also need to set these settings on the individual devices to prevent them from ignoring your DNS settings, but that can be done from the network settings. Avast had some safe networking “feature” that would force my DNS settings to be ignored, same with my Android phone.

Of course, the downside to all of this is that any different device, different IP, device from a friend, or mobile data could bypass these restrictions. You may soon be in an arms race with your child and chances are they can get more clever that you can in a shorter time frame.

I have now, that’s fantastic!

Best laugh I’ve had in a while. That is some grade-A jank.

MotionEye may be worth looking into further. There is an add-on for it. I have used to before on a raspberry Pi to steam video of the washer in the basement so that I could know if it was done from the second floor.

I love the idea and it’s something I thought about doing too, so I’m super interested in this thread.

For me, I thought it would be interesting to remove the existing stereo and mount everything it the double-DIN hole left behind. That would give you access to power, ignition, and speaker wires easily. You would need to do some rewiring between cars, but it would be the most practical spot.

From working on some fleet vehicles before, I’ve seen interesting systems where all of the accessories were on their own battery that only charged when the car was running or off an external charging cord that could be connected if it was going to sit for a while.

The benefit of a separate power system was that the equipment didn’t need to boot up every time you started the car. Maybe the display and anything else could be powered only when running, but if the main computer was always powered that would save time. It could also get a signal from a battery maintainer that the accessory battery is low and perform a graceful shutdown.

B&H is one of my favorite vendors, but god damn do they go overboard with the air cushions in their packages.

Do you think you can throw this knife into the target?

I can handle it.

I used MotionEye at one point to monitor my laundry using a RPi nano and a USB webcam. Pretty sure it just ended up with a web interface I could pull up on phone or computer on the local network.

The old washer liked to lie about how long was left in the cycle and was in the basement while my computer was upstairs.

… Ain’t that just a website?

A dark cleric.

They only heal so they others can suffer more pain. I think it would be fun to roleplay that kind of twisted mind that is helpful to the party but pulls it a clipboard and asks in a scale of 1 to 10 how bad is the pain?

I was shopping for parts for a Halloween costume at the beginning of the month. Christmas music was playing in the store.

Your frustration with the system is valid, but you’re missing the point. The time to argue about the rules of the game is not in the middle of the game. Between rounds the rules should absolutely be examined, changed, and balanced for the better, but once the game has begun you can only play within what has already been established.

Ethernet

Warlocks are the pets of other beings doing tricks to earn treats.

I’ve seen a lot of rulers that actually don’t have a mark at 0 and instead go right to the edge as 0. Typically they are worn down, being made of wood, so the accuracy of the first inch is dubious. To ensure the distance is correct, sliding the ruler down one unit is a good idea. So, my ruler starts at 0 but my measurements start at 1.